Cacao Takes Root in Waimanalo

What began as an ambitious experiment three years ago has blossomed into a heartfelt vision—one that encapsulates the spirit of sustainable niche farming and the dream of craft chocolate made from ‘bean to bar.’ Randall and his wife Anita have explored various crops on their picturesque Waimanalo farm, each time searching for that perfect fit. With the recent harvest of their inaugural crop of cacao beans, it seems that this pursuit has finally borne fruit. Although they are currently nurturing 15 cacao trees, the journey has been anything but straightforward. The couple has faced numerous challenges, adopting a ‘learning as you go’ mindset, and continuously problem-solving to strike a balance between raising animals and cultivating food crops. Interestingly, they’ve discovered that their goats seem to have quite the taste for cacao as well!

The inspiration to grow cacao came when the Yokotas crossed paths with the dedicated owners of Madre Chocolate in Kailua. This specialty shop is well-known for its exquisite dark confections, crafted lovingly on the Windward side of Oahu. However, the challenges of securing local cacao sources often compel them to rely on beans imported from foreign lands. In a generous effort to foster local cacao production, Madre Chocolate shared select cacao seeds with the Yokota Farm, curious to see how these seedlings would thrive in Waimanalo’s lush, rainy environment. Their shared hope was that this collaboration would ignite a sustainable local cacao industry.

Reflecting on their journey, Randall passionately asserts, “I think Waimanalo has the perfect conditions for growing cacao.” He elaborates, drawing parallels to the world of wine and coffee, highlighting how the unique qualities of local water and soil will impart distinct characteristics to the flavor of the chocolate. This is not just about producing cacao; it’s about crafting an identity for Hawaiian chocolate that celebrates the unique terroir of the islands. Just as the vineyards and coffee plantations of different regions each yield their unique profiles, so too will the cacao grown across Hawaii’s diverse landscapes.

With the global demand for cacao experiencing a robust upturn, Hawaii stands poised to establish itself as a premier cacao producer, benefiting from its idyllic tropical climate and optimal growing conditions. This trend is especially promising for dedicated farmers like the Yokotas, who are deeply invested in the burgeoning market for high-end craft chocolate. Each step they take not only contributes to their family legacy but also opens avenues for other local producers to cultivate their passion for cacao.

Want to learn more about cacao and the art of making chocolate? Join us as we delve deeper into the enchanting world of cacao agriculture in Hawaii, exploring the rich stories and flavors that each bean brings to life.

by Erica McMillan