Cacao Takes Root in Waimanalo

Randall Yokota from Yokota Farm in Waimanalo, HI checks his first harvest of cacao fruit Thursday, January 26, 2017. (photo by Ronen Zilberman)

What began as an experiment three years agao, may now grow into a larger vision of sustainable niche farming and locally produced ‘bean to bar’ chocolate as small farmers and island chocolatiers come together to nurture this dream. Randall Yokota and his wife Anita have tried many crops on their Waimanalo farm without finding the perfect fit. With the recent harvest of their first crop of cacao beans it seems they may have found something that will take root. Although they’re now growing up to 15 cacao trees it wasn’t an easy start. The two have had to struggle with the inevitable trials that come with a ‘learning as you go’ approach, continuously problem solving to find the balance between raising animals and food crops. Apparently, it seems that goats have a passion for cacao as well.

The Yokotas were introduced to the idea of growing cacao by owners of Madre Chocolate in Kailua. The specialty chocolate shop produces their own dark confections on the Windward side of Oahu, however, without local sources of cacao they’re forced to outsource the bulk of it from other countries in order to produce their chocolates. In an effort to support local cacao production, they shared select seeds with the Yokota Farm to see how the crop would fair in the rainy backroads of Waimanalo; with the hopes that the crop would take root and provide a sustainable future source of locally grown cacao.

Says Randall, “I think Waimanalo has the perfect conditions for growing cacao.” He went on to say that like wine and coffee, the unique qualities of the water and soil where the cacao is grown will lend their specific characteristics to the flavor of the chocolate in the final product. For this reason, not only will Hawaiian cacao become known for it’s unique flavors, but even the different regions within the islands its grown in, will develop their own unique flavor profiles as well.

With the worldwide demand for cacao on the rise, Hawaii has favorable positioning to emerge as a quality cacao producer with it’s tropical climate and ideal growing conditions. This is good news for niche farmers like the Yokotas and others, vested in the growing market for high-end craft chocolate.

Want to learn more about cacao and the art of making chocolate?

by Erica McMillan